Workshop Week: Studio Induction

Studio induction with Jon (technician). Again, this induction was clear and practical, allowing us to really get to grips with the kit by trying it out, instead of listening and working with theoretical and hypotheticals.

The first part of the session was mostly an overview of the studios – the rules; keep it tidy, don’t have water near electrical, make sure wires are safely stored. Basically, the health and safety of the studios. Jon made this engaging, it was fun to learn about health and safety… not something you say everyday…

Then we got further into the knitty gritty.

Specific order in the studio, if you follow it, everything will be fine!

  1. Stand – Set up the stand, make sure it is stable, the legs spread evenly and the hinge screwed up tightly.
  2. Place the light on top of the stand, make sure it is stable. In our case we are using Bowens Gemini 500/700 wattage (wattage is different according to light – higher wattage, more power/light).
  3. Take cap off light! (most important step, arguably).
  4. Place the light modifier onto the light, never use the light without a modifier.
  5. ONLY when the above steps are complete, plug-in light and turn on.

NOTES

  • Light is made up of two components – modelling light and flash tube – modelling light = constantly on, flash tube = goes off when fired.

PHYSICAL MAKE UP OF LIGHTS

  • The lights are pretty self-explanatory, left dial are the stops, right dial is the tenths between the larger stops.
    • On older models, the left dial is the stops, the right controls the modelling light.
    • Green button (when on) is to test/fire the flash.

Below is the full manual breakdown of the light.

Screenshot 2018-11-27 at 19.51.29.png

  • Keep modelling light on REL – relative, as this is what the light will look like when you shoot. Gives you a better idea of the way your photos will look.
  • The ‘cell’ on the top allows multiple flashes to fire at the same time, as they sync up, the second light being triggered milliseconds after the flash of the first.

 

  • You can manually and remotely trigger lights with a transmitter, TX – TO TRIGGER, RX – TO RECIEVE signal
  • This can help if flashes arent syncing up, the camera isn’t syncing up etc. – Studio 1 is set to CHANNEL C, studio 2 set to CHANNEL F. (Don’t mix these up, as you can manually fire flashes from different rooms).

 

After we had been inducted, we worked with various lighting situations, using different modifiers. I thought that I would find this boring, as I’ve done this before in foundation, and came to conclusion I really don’t like studio work. But I wanted to keep my mind open, as I am only in first year and didn’t want to rule out anything I could do to further my practise. So I found this exercise engaging, and reassuring to have Jon there to talk us through and analysing the situations we were creating.

A few set ups – working with the snoot – direct light to create shadow and depth, using a cone reflector/spill kill with an umbrella to soften the harsher light that comes from the silver spill kill.

We also used larger softboxes and multiple models with lights set to different stops to demonstrate the use of different depths of field and focus.

Again, my notes below show the whole sessions notes, further detailing light modifiers.

I found this session engaging, and the content clear. I think I would still be wary of using any of the kit, due to lack of experience and fear within how to use it, but I can counteract that by actually using it!

BOWENS GEMINI USER MANUAL

FLASH WORKSHOP CONDUCTED IN FOUNDATION YEAR

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